“I went to East Africa. It was nice.”
Nice? Did this friend really just describe a trip to East Africa as “nice”? That word is barely a step above OK and implies that there was nothing particularly impressive about it. She went on to tell me about the cruise she was going on next year. In her defense, all trips depend on HOW you take them. A “cheap” safari trip to Africa, staying in a standard hotel and riding on a small bus with a bunch of strangers, is no way to see the most wondrous place on the planet. Often in life, you get what you pay for. For me, the magic of Tanzania and Kenya is deeply personal and one that I don’t want to share with anyone but my best friend and daughter, Dr. Daisy. Certainly not with strangers. If a safari to East Africa is a once-in-a-lifetime bucket list place for you, then do it right. I’ll give you some of my suggestions for doing just that later in this blog. But first, the why and then the magic.
July 2024 was my second trip to East Africa. The first time was in Aug/Sept 2019. Read my blog about that incredible trip. I feel extremely fortunate to have gone to Tanzania and Kenya not once, but twice in my life. The first time was due to a lifelong wish to see the megafauna, particularly my late husband’s favorite animal—the African elephant. It was my number one bucket list place, but I also suspected it would be my most expensive trip (it was). My daughter and I traveled with Africa Dream Safaris in 2019 and it was everything we’d dreamed of. Well, except for the food. But then, we didn’t go for the food and we told ourselves that staying in moveable tents on the Serengeti prohibited anything other than standard cafeteria-style food and plain sack lunches. The awesomeness of the Serengeti overshadowed everything else. On that trip we visited the Serengeti, Nygorongoro Crater, Tarangire, and Lake Manyara (all in Tanzania). Again, check out my blog. On this recent trip we didn’t go to any of those places. We went to the Maasai Mara in Kenya, with a stop in Arusha (we adore the Arusha Coffee Lodge and the nice folks at the Tanzanite Experience), and then on to Gombe National Park. In a quick aside, we flew to Nairobi on Qatar Airways (transfer in Doha), which we both agreed was the best airline we’ve ever flown on.
Stop #1: The Maasai Mara, Kenya
There is an overwhelming number of tented bush camp choices in the Maasai Mara in Kenya. We chose Tangulia Mara. My daughter and I stayed there in mid-July 2024 for 4 nights, and we can’t think of a single thing that could be improved. Not one. From the people, to the accommodations, to the unbelievably good food, it was perfect.
Tangulia Mara Camp is owned and operated by a Maasai man named Jackson, and together with his Maasai staff, they take great pride in everything they do. Our tent was extremely comfortable and had special touches like embroidery and Maasai beadwork. There was (mostly) hot water and a flush toilet, comfortable beds, unlimited drinking water, and free daily laundry service. The best part was the veranda with the most stunning views I have ever had in any accommodation (and I have traveled extensively). Giraffes, hippos, elephants, hyenas, baboons…they were there. The camp, on private land, sits on a hill overlooking the Ololulo Murt salt lick, next to the Mara River. There is always animal activity, and the birds! Oh, my goodness, the birds! I’m not sure I have ever woken up to so much bird song. From the robin chats to the cisticolas to babblers and bulbuls and starlings, it was glorious. There were loads of dwarf mongooses on the paved trails leading from the tents to the main dining hall. A brown parrot dropped small fruits on the top of our tent. The air was full of the sound of grunting hippos and the giggling bark of hyenas. Did I mention the birds?
The highlight, of course, and the reason for our trip, was the game drives. We didn’t just see all the big mega fauna like my beloved elephants, but we saw an unbelievable number of unique birds: bee-eaters, rollers, kingfishers, weavers, sunbirds, vultures, hawks, eagles, hornbills, storks…too many to name. We saw a Narina trogon (Jackson went above and beyond to find this one!) and a Verreaux’s eagle owl.
And yes, we saw lions. One male lion had a Cape buffalo kill. He was joined by two female lions and about a dozen hyenas waiting for their turn. My binoculars (don’t forget yours) were turned to the saddle-bill stork chicks in a nearby tree. Every day there was something new: a southern ground hornbill catching and eating a snake, the lilac-breasted roller dive bombing the hyenas, the 8 lions snoozing under a tree, impala and zebra and “tommies” and dik-dik, the baby giraffes, the herds and herds of elephants including a gentle male who came within 2 feet of the truck to check us out (best day of my life). Allow me to pause for a moment and tell you about the elephant.
I mentioned earlier that my late husband—the only man I have ever loved—was extremely fond of African elephants. They were his favorite animal. The first time I saw them in the wild (2019 on our first trip to east Africa) I burst into tears. How could the world be a terrible place when there is this majestic, intelligent animal in it? On the last trip and on this one, we stopped in Nairobi to visit one of my favorite charities, the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. We had to visit “our” baby elephants. This time there were 21 babies and an adorable baby rhino. My late husband Eric would have lost his mind at the cuteness.
But I digress . . . While on a game drive with Lucy and Jackson, we came across a herd of about a dozen female elephants and their young. A full-grown male grazed about 200 or so yards away. Lucy was driving and she turned off the truck. The top was off, the zippered windows rolled up. It was just the four of us—me, Lucy, Jackson, and my daughter. Slowly, the male started walking away from the herd. It soon became clear that he was heading straight for us. We all sat completely still, and as he walked toward us, his eyes focused on us, Lucy moved her hand to start the vehicle. He was a big elephant and as a former zookeeper, I know how dangerous they can be. Jackson quietly shook his head at Lucy and said, “Look at his eyes.” Then, this wondrous animal lifted his trunk and waved it gently back and forth. I could have touched it. I was on the right side in the back seat and he was approaching from the right. He stopped right next to me and could have easily yanked me from the vehicle. I had a split second in which to be scared before I looked into his eyes and KNEW, I just KNEW that my husband’s favorite animal was not going to hurt us. The feeling that came over me is difficult to describe, but in those few seconds I knew it was a life-changer. And then he ambled off. None of us spoke for a moment, but I felt the tears. Jackson asked if we were scared. Never scared, simply grateful for having experienced this. We talked about it at dinner, we told all the Maasai at the lodge, we went to bed that night feeling so very lucky.
We were out in the safari truck all day, every day, while at Tangulia Mara Camp. We had breakfast out in the bush with tables and chairs and freshly prepared food. One day we ate lunch in the Serengeti! Jackson and Lucy were our guides/drivers during all the drives, and I can’t say enough good things about these two absolutely amazing people. It is not an easy thing for a woman to compete in a male dominated field in Kenya—particularly a Maasai woman. But there was Lucy—smart, sassy, kind, knowledgeable, an excellent driver, with a love for her homeland and its wildlife. It was a great honor to have spent time with her, and with Jackson who treats his staff kindly and has created this incredible camp.
After the game drives, we were welcomed back with songs and warm wet towels and drinks. And get ready for this . . . 5 star 3 and 4-course meals. I’m serious. The food could rival the best European restaurants. It was phenomenal! What an absolute treat!
But I haven’t told you about the Great Migration, which we witnessed. Vast numbers of wildebeest migrate across the Mara River every year in search of better grazing land, going from Kenya to Tanzania and back again. How many are there? Millions? It is one of the greatest wonders of the natural world. Seeing the crocodile catching and killing a wildebeest crossing the Mara River is something I could have done without, but nature is tough, and Africa is particularly brutal. There were dozens of dead wildebeest bodies floating down the river. I live in the vast Sonoran Desert and my sister is fond of saying that if you don’t respect the desert, it could kill you. The African savanna will kill you too. There are dangers that tourists are sometimes oblivious to. Every night we were escorted to our tent by a Maasai warrior. Listen to your guide and follow the rules.
Jackson’s love for his home and its animals shone through when he was guiding us. And did I mention that we were in the really good safari trucks? The kind that has no trouble going practically anywhere, with a removable top and side windows giving unobstructed views. There was always a well-stocked cooler onboard, full of water and soda.
Our entire trip was booked by the consummate professionals at Travel Beyond. Melanie and Elle booked a seamless private safari for us. Are they cheap? No. But they are one of the best and well within the price range of other comparable private tour companies. When we went to Kenya and Tanzania 5 years ago it was because it was a “bucket list” place. Then we decided to go back again because my PhD anthrozoologist daughter wanted to see the Maasai Mara and Gombe. But now, Africa, with all its magic is like a kind of drug that we can’t get enough of. We miss it already and are planning to go back in a few years. This is an expensive trip so I’ll have to save for it. I feel incredibly fortunate to have gone to beautiful east Africa twice. Cue the Toto song “Africa”! We will definitely stay at Tangulia Mara again, and we wouldn’t dream of booking with anyone other than Travel Beyond. Thanks also to the Bush and Beyond team out of Nairobi who provided excellent services on the ground. A special shout out to Jackson and Lucy and Felix and all the INCREDIBLE Maasai at Tangulia Mara: Asante sana. Tunatazamia kukuona tena.
And yes, take a few weeks to learn a few Swahili words. You can download it on Duolingo for free.
Stop # 2: Gombe, Tanzania
Are you ready for an adventure far far away? With stunning views and unique wildlife, in the place where Dr. Jane Goodall did her research? How about experiencing it with comfortable beds in a tented camp with hot water, a rainfall showerhead, a flush toilet, unlimited bottled water, free daily laundry, your own veranda, and fantastic 3-course meals prepared fresh daily and served in a dining room overlooking Lake Tanganyika, with nightly entertainment by baboons and pied wagtails? Add to that unbeatable Tanzanian hospitality. The staff became our friends when my daughter and I stayed with them for 4 unforgettable nights in late July 2024. To Joel, Rama, Philip, Anton, and all the rest of the staff: thank you for sharing your beautiful culture with us. We miss you already!
This amazing experience was at Mbali Mbali Gombe in Tanzania, in Gombe National Park, quite close to Dr. Jane’s house. We took a charter flight via Air Excel from Arusha to Kigoma Airport on a comfortable Cessna Caravan. Kigoma is about a 20-minute drive to Kigoma Hilltop Hotel where we had lunch and then took a 2-hour boat ride to Mbali Mbali camp. We birded along the way. Watch for palm nut vultures and giant kingfishers.
Bring your camera and your sense of wonder and curiosity. Mbali Mbali Gombe is a fascinating place where you can walk in the footsteps of my PhD daughter’s hero—Dr. Jane Goodall. You will likely see chimps, baboons, vervet monkeys, red-tailed monkeys, red colobus monkeys, and even blue monkeys. We did, and my primatologist daughter pronounced the day she saw chimps to be “the best day of my life.” But. Please remember—wild animals are not there for your entertainment. Respect them, keep your distance, obey all the rules, and don’t make unreasonable demands of the hard-working trackers and guides. Be humble, be appreciative, be thankful, be kind. In return you will have a life-changing experience and a new-found love for wildlife and African culture. The camp is close to a small fishing village of about 1,000 people. You can hike there but the trail is quite steep and narrow in parts, making it somewhat treacherous. Wear good hiking shoes. Taking a boat may be better. The villagers are kind and curious, and I felt extremely grateful to have been there.
Did I mention the sunset over Lake Tanganyika? The sun turns from white to yellow to orange to a blazing red, while the light shimmers and changes color over the water. Finally, the sun fades away and it is time for you to leave this truly magical place.
But we will return. Africa is inside us now.
NOTE: All photos are the property of Dr. Robin “Daisy” Fiore.